Karl WP Beyer It is a special experience to look out from Jebel al Harim, which is more than 2.000 meters high, at the surrounding rocky landscape and the rugged, fjord-like coast. A trip on a dhow converted for tourist purposes to the fjords of Musandam is no less fun. From the cruise ship berth, we walk a few hundred meters over to the dhow that is ready. Our first impression: With comfortable cushions and a few carpets, the boat seems almost homely and comfortable. Drinks and the obligatory dates to refresh yourself along the way are available. A dhow is a pleasant place to be when the sea is calm. The trips are offered either as excursions lasting several hours or as full-day tours with food and bathing breaks.
Khasab - the dhow trip will begin shortly
Khasab - Dhow trip - sweet idleness
The wooden boats travel along the 17-kilometer-long Khor Sham estuary (also called Khour Shem). At the beginning of the trip, the landscape is not very spectacular. In the foreground we see flat hills, even a bit of sandy beach, and the mountains rise up in the background.
Khasab - Musandam seen from the sea
Soon after, the coastline changes. Jagged rock formations dominate the landscape from now on. After a sharp right turn, the boat driver turns into the "fjord". The rugged, steep rocks quickly gain height. The differently colored rock formations give experts an insight into the history of the earth. Off Musandam, the meeting of the Arabian and Eurasian continental plates can be easily observed based on the faults in the rock.
Opposite us, far away, at the foot of high cliffs, there is a settlement of a few houses. Soon after, on the opposite side, there is a second settlement. Small fishing boats are in the water in front of it. We learn that only three families still live in the settlement. Such tiny fishing villages are not connected to the road network. Everything that is needed for a living is brought in by boat. In some cases there is even a lack of electricity and water. The school-age children are taken to school in Khasab on school boats.
Khasab - remote settlement
Khasab - a settlement only accessible from the sea
Fishing is only carried out in the winter months. During the summer, the fish avoid the region because of the high water temperatures. The villagers retreat to Wadi Khasab in Dattelhaine in the summer.
Back to the boat tour: In between we meet other tourist boats, some of which offer their guests full-day tours with bathing stops.
Khasab - Encounter with a tourist dhow
Khasab - Swimming in a sheltered bay
Sightings of dolphins are often reported in the waters off Musandam. There is also talk of marine mammals following the dhows for hours. This experience was not fulfilling for us. The dolphins obviously had other commitments.
February 2025
