Karl WP Beyer The metropolis of Rome is a successful symbiosis of cultural heritage, magnificent architecture and the Italian way of life. The city is incredibly rich in sights. But one thing is missing: a port close to the city. Cruise ships with "Rome" on their route guidance dock instead in around 70 kilometers from Rome Civitavecchia, the former naval port of the Papal States.
Civitavecchia - cruise ships
The city, which has around 52.000 inhabitants (as of 2022), has little to offer compared to Rome that is worth seeing or remarkable. That is why we are always drawn to the "eternal" Rome. Cruise ship passengers are offered a variety of options for trips to Rome. During our stay in Civitavecchia, we usually decide to take the individual train journey to Rome (see also -> Take the train from Civitavecchia to Rome and Discover Rome by train). It's cheap, safe and convenient; in addition, the trains run at short intervals during rush hour. Train tickets to Rome's various train stations are available from ticket offices, ticket machines (with menus in German) or, for a small surcharge, from the neighboring travel agency.
St. Peter's Basilica - the largest church in the world
The first item on the agenda of our visit to Rome is St. Peter's Basilica. We exit the train at the Roma San Pietro station. From there we walk about a kilometer to St. Peter's Basilica. We booked our tickets online at the Musei Vaticani to avoid the feared queue.
Peter's Square - with the colonnades
Peter's Square - as the Pope sees it
Before entering St. Peter's Basilica, a security check must be completed, similar to that at airports. Afterwards we can enjoy the size, splendor and beauty of the largest church in the world in terms of number of visitors.
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter's Basilica
We refrain from a description at this point, because that would go beyond the scope. Suffice it to say: 211,50 meters long, 132,50 meters high, 15.160 square meters of interior space, a main dome, ten secondary domes and 800 columns; these are the defining key data of the church. The foundation stone for the building was laid in 1506, but it was only after 117 years of construction that the master builders were able to report the completion of the task to the incumbent Pope. The grandiose building was financed by the Peterspfennig, the sale of letters of indulgence and special donations from the Spanish conquerors who had become rich in the New World.
St. Peter's Basilica - Swiss Guardsmen
The splendor of St. Peter's Basilica
The dome of St. Peter's Basilica
The nave of St. Peter's Basilica
The three fountains of Piazza Navona
We walk a good twenty minutes from St. Peter's Basilica to Piazza Navona. We pass the Castel Sant'Angelo, built at the beginning of the second century. The entire ensemble of baroque buildings grouped around the Piazza Navona and the three fountains impress us over and over again.
The Castel Sant'Angelo seen from the Castel Sant'Angelo
In the south of the square, in front of the Brazilian embassy, is the Fontana del Moro. The "Mohrenbrunnen" dates from the second half of the 16th century. The main figures of the fountain are the four tritons, hybrid creatures from Greek mythology. The Ethiopian (il moro) fighting with a dolphin was later placed in the center of the figures.
Fontana del Moro - behind it the Embassy of Brazil
In the middle of the piazza is the mighty fountain of the Four Rivers, the Fontana di Fiumi, which dominates the piazza. It was created in the middle of the 17th century and represents a river for each of the four continents known at the time. The rivers are shown as male figures. They are the Danube for Europe, the Ganges for Asia, the Nile for Africa and the Rio de la Plata for South America. An obelisk towers in the center of the fountain. The fountain is the manifested claim to power of the popes of that time over the entire earth.
Fountain of the Four Rivers - symbol of the Danube
Fountain of the Four Rivers - symbol of the Rio de la Plata
The third water feature is the Fontana del Nettuno, the Fountain of Neptune. The fountain is dated back to the second half of the 16th century. It got its current appearance 300 years later. The central figure of the fountain is the Roman water god Neptune fighting an octopus.
The Neptune Fountain
The Neptune Fountain
The Pantheon in Piazza della Rotonda
From the Piazza Navona we walk only a few hundred steps to the Piazza della Rotonda, where the Pantheon stands. Rome's Emperor Hadrian originally had the rotunda built at the beginning of the second century AD as a temple to all the Roman gods. Later, in 608, the sanctuary was converted into a church. The interior of the church is definitely worth seeing because of its balanced shape. The extent of the dome (internal diameter 43,35 meters) is breathtaking considering the technical conditions at the time. Famous contemporaries found their final resting place in the Pantheon, including the important Renaissance painter Raffaello – Raffaello Santi. The building is open daily. Admission is not charged.
The Pantheon in the evening
The nave of the Pantheon
Our next destination – the Fontana di Trevi
We go through Via di Pastini to Piazza di Pietra, where the remains of Hadrian's Temple stand. The Hadrianeum, "Il Tempio di Adriano" dates back to 145 AD. The eleven remaining Corinthian columns now form the facade of the Roman Stock Exchange. A little later we are in front of the Fontana di Trevi. 50 meters wide and 26 meters high, the fountain complex cannot be missed and is one of Rome's must-sees. Popular belief says that tossing a coin over your right shoulder with your left hand will bring you good luck. The coin leads to a safe return to Rome. At least it worked for us.
Fontana di Trevi by night
Fontana di Trevi by night
The Spanish Steps
We reach another highlight of Rome ten minutes later. I mean the Spanish Steps. It is one of the most famous open staircases in the world. The impetus for building the staircase is said to have come from the French side in the 17th century. It was named after the Spanish embassy to the Holy See. People of all ages and nationalities meet at the stairs to enjoy the feeling of having stood or sat on one of the 138 steps of these stairs. The staircase ends at the top with the Trinità dei Monti church. Below the stairs is the Piazza di Spagna with the Fontana della Barcaccia, the Column of the Immaculate Conception, the Spanish Embassy and the Palace of the Congregation for the Promotion of the Catholic Faith in the World. The Via dei Condotti, Rome's fashion Mecca, branches off from the Piazza di Spagna.
The Spanish Steps
Trinità dei Monti church
Piazza di Spagna - Fontana della Barcaccia
Piazza Spagna - Colonna dell'Immacolata
The Augustus Mausoleum
Via dei Condotti becomes Via Tomacelli. This leads to the Mausoleo di Augusto, the Augustus mausoleum. The Tiber flows behind it. And on the Tiber is the Ara Pacis Augustae Museum. It includes the splendid "Altar of Peace of Augustus". The Roman Senate had it built for its emperor after victories over Spain and Gaul.
Emperor Augustus Square
The Augustus Mausoleum
There's no harm in crossing halfway across the neighboring Tiber bridge, Ponte Cavour. On the other side of the river stretches the mighty, white Palace of Justice. Next to it we see again the Castel Sant'Angelo, the Engelsburg, built in the 2nd century. And the dome of St. Peter's Basilica is also clearly visible from the location.
Tiber with the Ponte Cavour
Palace of Justice and Sacro Cuore del Suffragio Church
We return to Civitavecchia from the Roma San Pietro train station. We cover the last two or three kilometers by taxi. The designated tour corresponds to a length of about five and a half kilometers and is not only suitable for "hard-boiled". The tour conveys a multitude of impressions and refreshes memories.
Travelers visiting Rome for the first time may want to exercise some restraint on their daily allowance. Fewer program points can achieve more. There are many bars and restaurants along the route described. Nobody has to starve or die of thirst. We particularly appreciate the Miscellanea restaurant on Via della Palombella. You can only see a section of the Pantheon from the outside terrace, but the food and the prices are right for that. Plus, you don't have to compete with dozens of other people for a seat in one of the many restaurants in front of the Pantheon.
After a day full of impressions, the regional train reliably brings us back to Civitavecchia. We still endure the last one and a half kilometers until the port access at Largo della Pace, which was relocated a few years ago, and the free shuttle buses that run in the extensive port area. If you find this route too difficult, use the buses or shared taxis available at the train station.
Update November 2022