Karl WP Beyer Many cities in the world impress us immensely. But for us, Rome is the city of superlatives. We can't get enough of her. We regularly use cruises that we depart from Rome's port of Civitavecchia for a stay in the Italian capital.
At the end of May 2017 we are testing the Celebrity Reflection on a cruise through the western Mediterranean. The journey of Celebrity Reflection starts and ends in Civitavecchia. This gives us the opportunity to “discover” Rome further before we travel. There's a lot we haven't seen yet, and some sights of the "Eternal City" deserve to be revisited. One such destination is the Villa Borghese, located in a large park.
Villa Borghese - a princely summer residence
Although the park is quite in the center of Rome, we have never visited the extensive park area. But this time we take the opportunity to explore the Villa Borghese, after all we are staying at the Ludovisi Palace Hotel. From there we not only reach the Spanish Steps in a very short time, but also one of the four entrances to the park, the Porta Pinciana. The hotel is located in one of Rome's most upscale districts, on Via Ludovisi. It meets the Via Vittorio Veneto, to which Federico Fellini created a lasting monument in the 1960 film “La Dolce Vita”.
The Spanish Steps
Porta Pinciana
The Villa Borghese is one of the largest parks in the metropolis. However, the visitor should not expect a meticulously maintained garden landscape with a short-cut, English lawn. Rather, a varied Mediterranean landscape presents itself to us on an area of around five square kilometers. On the one hand, with the Museo e Galleria Borghese, the park is home to a world-famous art collection. On the other hand, it is a horticultural jewel with ponds, fountains, small temples, an obelisk and much more. Well-kept paths run through the area; even a riding arena and a daycare center are available. Adjacent to the park is the Bioparco, Rome's zoological garden.
The park, laid out at the beginning of the 17th century, has nothing in common with the term “villa” that is commonly used today. At that time, the term stood for the country residence of an important personality. One such was Cardinal Scipione Caffarelli Borghese, a nephew of Pope Paul V. In 1605, the noble churchman acquired vineyards, gardens, stables, a coach house and a zoo in order to have a summer residence befitting his rank built. Some property confiscated from another family may also have contributed to the park's size. The cardinal had the terrain prepared a little, and a splendid residence was also required. It was built between 1613 and 1616. The building is now the site of the Museo e Galleria Borghese.
Borghese Museum and Gallery
Borghese Museum and Gallery
The cardinal was apparently an avid art collector. Besides, he was wealthy. He assembled a valuable collection of antiquities and sculptures at his summer residence. At that time, the oil paintings by world-famous artists belonging to the Borghese family were still hanging in the city palace in Rome. The extraordinary private art collection was later brought together in the Galleria Borghese. The facility has been owned by the city of Rome since 1903.
Park of the Villa Borghese - group of sculptures
In catchy Internet forums, the positive reviews roll over one another. However, it can also be read that the daily number of visitors is limited. Furthermore, the visit to the exhibition is limited to a maximum of two hours. It is advisable to buy tickets online in advance.
We do not visit the art collection on a short visit to Rome. However, we have enough time for a tour of the extensive park.
Tour through the park of Villa Borghese
From our hotel we walk a few hundred meters to Largo Federico Fellini. There we pass the imposing Porta Pinciana. The building, which is more than 1.600 years old, has been redesigned and reinforced several times over the centuries. Opposite the gate building is one of the entrances to Villa Borghese. On both sides of this road, the "Propilei delle Aquile", the "Propylaea of the Eagles" flank the entrance to the park. Behind the Propylaea the view opens onto the park area overgrown with tall pine trees.
Porta Pinciana
Propile delle Aquile
The Viale del Museo Borghese leads directly to the museum. The art collection is a powerful, representative building with five round arches in the entrance area. Behind the building is a well-tended garden with artistically designed beds, boxwood arrangements and other plants, a large number of sculptures and a Venus fountain.
Next we move towards the “Aviary”, which is in line with the Galleria. Rare birds were kept in the cages on the roof of the building. The next building is the "Edificio de la Meridiana". It completed the so-called "Secret Gardens" beginning at the Galleria.
Shortly thereafter, the Piazzale dei Cavalli Marini is in front of us. There is a fountain in the middle of the square: four horses sitting in the water are balancing a fountain bowl over their heads.
Park of Villa Borghese - Fontana dei Cavalli Marini
Then comes the Piazza di Siena. The international show jumping tournament "CSIO Rome" is held in the riding arena every year in May. When we visit, preparations for the event are underway.
Behind the equestrian center is the Casina di Raffaello. The travel guide Marco Polo writes that children between the ages of three and ten are offered a playhouse and children's cinema in the Casina.
Park of Villa Borghese - Casina di Raffaello
It is only a few steps from the Casina di Raffaello to the Diana Temple, a round building supported by eight columns.
Park of the Villa Borghese - Temple of Diana
Our path then leads towards the Terrazza del Pincio. From this high vantage point, visitors can see Piazza del Popolo, St. Peter's Basilica and Vatican City. To get to the viewing platform, we take Viale Goethe. At the end of the path there is also a monumental statue of Goethe. It shows the man of letters looking into the distance with a respectful attitude. Kaiser Wilhelm II donated it; that explains the dimensions of the monument.
Park of the Villa Borghese - Goethe Monument
One of Rome's 13 obelisks rises up in the Piazza Bucarest. This stone pillar is not a monobloc like Egyptian obelisks generally are, but consists of four slabs standing on a central pillar. The obelisk is more than nine meters high and is crowned by a star.
Villa Borghese Park - Obelisk
Villa Borghese Park - Top of the Obelisk
Next to the pillar we see the Casina Valadier built between 1818 and 1837. Today the elegant, neoclassical building is used as a café and restaurant.
Park of Villa Borghese - Casina Valadier
Terrazza del Pincio - One of the most beautiful views of Rome
The Terrazza del Pincio, located on the hill of the same name, offers a wonderful view of the Piazza del Popolo, the Vatican, St. Peter's Basilica and countless churches. Looking even further to the left we see the rounded roof of the Pantheon and the huge Altare della Patria, the monumental one dedicated to King Vittorio Emanuele ll. dedicated monument. It is located on Capitoline Hill at the end of Via del Corso between Piazza Venezia and the Roman Forum.
On the way back to the hotel we pass another magnificent building, the "Villa Medici". It was built on Pincio Hill in the 16th century. Since 1803 it has housed the French Academy in Rome. Another eye-catcher is the Trinità dei Monti church. Shortly afterwards we are in front of our hotel in Via Ludovisi.
Villa Medici
Trinità dei Monti
It is certain that on our tour of Villa Borghese we only discovered part of the extensive grounds and buildings. We'll do everything we can to see the rest of it. It is worth it!
November 2022