Martinique – the "Island of Flowers" – offers cruise guests dreamy beaches and Caribbean flair. We spent a day in Martinique on your own designed to experience the most beautiful beaches around the Bay of Fort-de-France. Our plan: By public ferry Blue lines we set off from the cruise port to the peninsula Pointe du Bout and explore several beaches on foot. This proved to be a perfect option for an independent shore excursion – we were able to several Martinique beaches We enjoyed it and were back on the ship in good time. Below, we'll share a detailed account of our day in Martinique. Enjoy your trip!
1. Martinique – Start at the cruise terminal
Martinique - Fort-de-France Cruise Terminal
Our cruise ship is on Pointe Simon Cruise Terminal in Fort de France From there, it's only a few minutes' walk to the Blue Lines ferry dock, which crosses the Bay of Fort-de-France several times an hour. We conveniently buy tickets from the vending machine right at the pier – a return ticket costs €7 per person. The ferries depart early in the morning and into the evening (daily from approximately 6:30am to 22:30pm), giving cruisers plenty of flexibility. The frequency is also high: During the week, the boats commute frequently, so wait times are rarely long. Information on departure times can be found at https://www.bluelines.mq/en. We briefly study the timetable (posted at the terminal) and then take the next ferry towards Anse à l'Âne.
The crossing is entertaining: In about 55 minutes (it was a Sunday and very crowded), the boat takes us across the wide bay. This short "cruise" in itself is a delight – we enjoy the view back to Fort-de-France with its striking Fort Saint Louis and ahead to the green hills of Trois-Îlets, the municipality where our destination beaches are located. The sun is shining, a light breeze is blowing, and full of anticipation, we look forward to the first beach. After a brief stop at the Anse Mitan stop (more on that later), the boat reaches Anse à l'Âne, our first beach of the day.
2. Anse à l'Âne Beach
The beach: Plage de Anse à l'Âne
As soon as we dock, we sense the relaxed Caribbean rhythm of Anse à l'Âne. The beach is a pretty little cove with pale sand, lined with palm and sea almond trees that provide natural shade. The water is calm and clear. A wooden jetty extends into the sea directly at the pier, where the ferries dock and depart. The village of Anse à l'Âne stretches out around it, with a few brightly painted houses, small hotels, and vacation apartments. Despite some tourist facilities, the place has retained its authentic charm.
Before we look for a spot on the sand, our gaze falls upon several beach restaurants and bars right on the beach. Here, you can sit at tables on the sand or enjoy local specialties in the shade of the restaurant – from fresh fish to ti'punch. We decide to explore the area first. Along the beach and in the village behind it, there are small restaurants, such as the well-known Pignon New Wave (famous for Creole cuisine). A small supermarket (Carrefour Express) and a bakery (Boulangerie Pâtisserie Pom'Kanel) are also located near the beach, so self-caterers will find everything they need.
Then we spread our towels under a palm tree and jump into the warm Caribbean sea. The water here at Anse à l'Âne is truly pleasantly calm, with barely any waves disturbing the swimmers. While snorkeling, we even spot a few colorful fish near the shore. In the distance, a few boats bob at anchor. Even on a Sunday, this beach is wonderfully relaxed; only a few families and couples are spread out on the sand. We enjoy the peaceful atmosphere under the palm trees – a cruise day in the Caribbean couldn't start better!
After about an hour and a half of relaxation, we decide to head to the next beach. We could simply take the ferry back (there are also direct boats to Fort-de-France from here), but we've decided to hike to the neighboring Anse Mitan—a short, adventurous walk along the Morne d'Alet hill that separates the two bays.
3. Walk from Anse à l'Âne to Anse Mitan
The narrow path from Anse à l'Âne beach to Anse Mitan beach
The trail is only about 1,5 km long, but leads over a low hill – sturdy shoes and a bit of fitness are essential. So we shoulder our daypacks and set off. At the northern end of Anse à l'Âne, we leave the beach and cross Rue des Balaous (Rue des Balaous is the road to Anse Mitan, but after a few meters, you can't go any further on the left). From there, we walk straight ahead along a footpath to Rue de la Bécune, which we follow up the slope to the left. At the first bend we leave the road and continue straight ahead until we reach a striking building with a light blue roof, where we turn onto a narrow path (Rue des Balaous) turn right – this dirt road leads to Anse Mitan.
The shady path winds through forest and scrub. Occasionally, the trees offer glimpses of the sea. We don't encounter anyone – apparently, this route isn't a typical tourist trail, but rather a popular one for locals. In fact, the path isn't signposted, and it takes a bit of orientation to find the trailhead. After about 15 minutes of uphill and downhill, we begin to hear traffic noise – a sign that we're approaching Anse Mitan.
The path spits us out next to an inconspicuous facility, which turns out to be a sewage treatment plant. Here we are above Anse Mitan. We follow the road to the right toward the sea and Anse Mitan beach. After a few minutes, we've successfully completed the hike and are ready for the next swim stop!
4. Anse Mitan Beach
The beach: Plage de Anse Mitan
The Plage de l'Anse Mitan is very different from Anse à l'Âne. This beach is narrower and more urban, but lively and vibrant. Anse Mitan is considered one of Martinique's most popular beaches, and accordingly, we find a mix of tourists and locals enjoying the beach life. The sand is soft and golden, and the water shimmers in turquoise tones. While it's relatively quiet during the week, on weekends the beach transforms into a meeting place for many families from Fort-de-France who arrive by ferry. In the evenings, zouk and reggae music can be heard from the speakers of the beach bars, creating a lively atmosphere. Today—it's Sunday—there's a lot of activity. Music boxes are blaring zouk classics, children are splashing in the shallow water, while families are picnicking under parasols.
It's noticeable that natural shade is in short supply here. The few palm trees and other trees along the shore aren't enough for all visitors, as Anse Mitan is sparsely vegetated. Fortunately, you can rent parasols and loungers on site, which we do right away. For a moderate price, we set up two loungers and an umbrella right by the water. Alternatively, we could have sat under the terraces of the beach restaurants – there, too, you'll find shade.
First, we jump into the sea: Anse Mitan also offers pleasantly calm waters thanks to its sheltered location in the bay. While swimming, we admire the magnificent panoramic view – from here, you can see the Fort-de-France skyline on the other side of the bay, which adds a special charm to the beach visit.
Afterwards, we stroll along the beach for a bit. It's fun to watch the hustle and bustle: families build sandcastles, couples sip cocktails in the lounge chairs of the beach clubs, and boats from Fort-de-France continually dock at the pier, disgorging new bathers.
But we don't want to linger too long, as we're drawn further to Pointe du Bout. The village of Pointe du Bout adjoins the eastern end of the beach seamlessly. So we pack up and simply follow the beach to the end, where the first buildings of Pointe du Bout begin.
5. Pointe du Bout
We've barely left the beach behind us when we find ourselves in the middle of Pointe du Bout, arguably Martinique's most famous resort. This small settlement on the other side of the bay from Fort-de-France is strikingly reminiscent of a southern French resort. It truly has everything your heart desires: a marina, lovely restaurants, bars, hotels, apartment buildings, holiday residences, and small beach coves.
The center of Pointe du Bout is the Creole Village – a car-free area with colorful Creole houses, which house boutiques, souvenir shops, an ice cream parlor, and several restaurants. We stroll through the alleys, look into a few shops (the selection ranges from swimwear to rum and spices to handicrafts), and treat ourselves to homemade coconut ice cream at MITSOU.
Afterwards, we walk to the Pointe du Bout marina. Numerous sailboats and yachts bob in their moorings. Excursion boats also depart from this harbor—you can book dolphin-watching tours or day trips to other islands, for example. Today, we'll content ourselves with admiring the luxurious boats!
After a walk through the village and along the harbor, our next destination is clear: the beach of Pointe du Bout, locally mostly Plage du Bout From the marina, we simply follow a path next to a hotel.
La Bodega du bout in Pointe du Bout
Boutiques along the street in Pointe du Bout
6. Plage du Bout (Beach at Pointe du Bout)
Beach: Plage du Bout
The beaches at Pointe du Bout consist of several small, semi-hidden coves along the headland. They are man-made or reclaimed, but blend beautifully into the picture-perfect idyll. Turquoise, crystal-clear water laps the pale sand, glistening in the sun. The coves are somewhat sheltered, so there are hardly any waves – perfect for swimming and safe bathing for children. We wade far out into the sea, and the water is still only waist-deep. Even inexperienced swimmers can swim here without worry (though, of course, you should still keep an eye on small children).
We quickly notice that this stretch of beach is a real weekend hotspot. Today is Sunday – and you can feel it right away. Plage du Bout is packed, music fills the air, and the babble of voices mingles with the sound of the waves. Many reviews describe how Plage du Bout often gets crowded and loud when a large number of visitors arrive – and that's exactly what we're experiencing now. Due to the limited beach area, it quickly feels overcrowded.
It's striking that locals like to come to this bay with their boats. In fact, there are several motorboats bobbing in the water, cheerful Creole music blaring from them. Friends are apparently having a small party on their boats – a typical Martinique Sunday scene, as we're told. We can't help but smile and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. We spend an hour at Plage du Bout – swimming, relaxing, and observing the hustle and bustle around us. This beach may be small, but the scenery is truly charming. The view of the bay of Fort-de-France and across to the opposite coast (where Fort-de-France and the green mountains lie behind it) is particularly magnificent.
Our next and final destination is just a few steps away, on the north side of the Pointe du Bout: There, a piece of history is hidden – the ruins of an old fort, which we are keen to explore.
Beach life at Plage du Bout
The water at Plage du Bout invites you to splash around
7. Fort de la Pointe du Bout – Explore Lost Place
"Entrance" of the Fort de la Pointe du Bout
North of Plage du Bout, we enter an area that immediately catches the eye: weathered walls and concrete remnants emerge amidst the dense greenery – we have reached the Fort de la Pointe du Bout. This is a fascinating lost place worth exploring. In fact, these are the remains of a small 19th-century fortification, once built here to defend the bay. Back then (in the mid-19th century), the Pointe du Bout's location made it ideal for keeping enemy ships away from the bay entrance. The French military built this fort with cannon emplacements to protect Fort-de-France. Later, the fort lost its importance and was abandoned around 1870 – until the Second World War. In 1940, the site was temporarily reactivated and guns were re-stationed to form a triangular defensive ring together with Fort Saint Louis and other batteries. After that, the fort fell into complete obscurity.
Today we stand in awe at this Sleeping Beauty of history. The fort is quite dilapidated and overgrown with tropical vegetation. Between the trees, we discover the remains of old walls, rusted rebar, and overgrown staircases. Some walls are adorned with colorful graffiti—modern "art" that accompanies the decay. We carefully climb over rubble and through former passageways. Suddenly, we come across two imposing relics: On the flanks of the headland lie two old steel cannons, dated 1892 and 1893. They are, of course, decommissioned and partly corroded by rust, but it is impressive to see these over 130-year-old guns here in the thicket.
The fort itself consisted of a small barracks area and gun emplacements. There are future plans to redevelop this area and integrate the fort into a hotel project. But for now, the Pointe du Bout still belongs to us curious and adventurous people.
After about half an hour of that Urbex feeling (the Urbex feeling is an intense blend of a thirst for adventure, an aesthetic fascination with decay, and the thrilling awareness of standing in a place most people will never set foot in again), we decide to head back. Feeling like we've discovered a real insider tip, we leave the Fortin and head back toward the center of Pointe du Bout.
Abandoned gun
Inside the fortifications
8. Return to Fort-de-France
Our boat is already at the pier of Pointe du Bout
From the fort, we take a leisurely stroll back to the Pointe du Bout marina, where the ferry dock is located. The sun is already setting, and it's time to think about the ship. Fortunately, Blue Lines operates the route to Fort-de-France until the evening, but we don't want to risk the last available ferry. The departure times are punctual, and the boats are sometimes full, so we prefer to arrive at the dock a little early. Indeed, a diverse group of beachgoers, hotel guests, and commuters (some locals use the boats as their daily commute to Fort-de-France) has gathered. Our ship departs on time—this time we catch a larger ship that goes directly back to Fort-de-France. In just about 15 minutes, we reach the starting point of our tour, the port of the island's capital. During the crossing, we enjoy the wind in our hair one last time and the view of the coastline, part of which we've become acquainted with today.
We disembark at the Fort-de-France terminal feeling satisfied. It's only a few minutes' walk back to the cruise ship at the Pointe Simon Cruise Terminal. We return to the ship with many new impressions – just in time for departure, of course. The timing of our excursion was perfect; the time slot we chose was well-chosen, so we were never rushed.
Fort Saint Louis from the water
Impressive Fort-de-France
9. Fazit
Mein Schiff 2 from the harbor promenade
Our personal conclusion: This day in Martinique was a complete success. We experienced several beautiful beaches – from idyllically quiet to lively – in one day and also explored Pointe du Bout, a charming resort town. The mix of swimming, walking, and exploring made the trip varied. We particularly enjoyed the little adventure of exploring Martinique on our own without a booked tour. We felt safe and welcome at all times – the locals were friendly, and the infrastructure (ferries, paths, restaurants) is excellent for independent excursions. Time management also worked flawlessly; we had plenty of time at each stop and still made it back to the ship on time – the timing was ideal.
We highly recommend this tour for cruisers who want to explore Martinique independently. With swimwear, sunscreen, a bit of fitness for the short walk, and a few euros in your pocket, you can have a fantastic day – and for little money (ferry and personal expenses). The beaches of Anse à l'Âne and Anse Mitan offer pure Caribbean bathing pleasure, and Pointe du Bout impresses with its southern French flair in the Caribbean. The icing on the cake, the Fort de la Pointe du Bout even offers a touch of adventure and history off the beaten track. A truly wonderful day – one we'll remember for a long time.
Finally, we have compiled some practical information that will be useful when planning such an individual beach day in Martinique:
10. Practical information |
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Boat connection |
Blue Lines shuttle boats Fort-de-France ↔ Pointe du Bout/Anse Mitan/Anse à l'Âne (public transport). Travel time to Anse à l'Âne is approximately 55 minutes (during peak season). Runs 7 days a week from early morning (around 6:30am) to late afternoon (around 22:30pm). Tickets are available at the ticket machine. Price: €5 one-way, €7 return per person. |
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On foot |
Distance from Anse à l'Âne to Anse Mitan: approximately 1,5 km. Unpaved path over Morne d'Alet (elevation gain ~110 m). Duration ~20–30 minutes. The trail is partially unmarked, so it's best to note the route or take a map with you. Sturdy shoes and water are recommended. |
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Beaches & Facilities |
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Currency & Language |
Martinique is part of France: The currency is the euro. Euros and major credit cards are accepted in Fort-de-France and tourist areas. Language: French (most locals speak little German or English, but in Pointe du Bout, English usually gets you by). A few basic French terms don't hurt, though. |
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Safety |
Martinique is considered relatively safe. Exercise the usual caution (don't leave valuables unattended on the beach, keep an eye on your luggage). The beaches in the area described are family-friendly and frequented by many cruise ship passengers. Watch out for sea urchins in the water (although beach shoes are usually not necessary in the sandy bays). |
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scheduling |
If the cruise ship arrives in the morning (e.g., 8am), there's plenty of time to visit both beaches and Pointe du Bout and return in the afternoon. Be sure to check the ferry schedules – it's best to plan for the last return trip at least 1–1,5 hours before the cruise ship departs. The ferries depart on time; if it's busy, consider taking an earlier one, as the next departure may be full. Overall, this excursion is ideal for stays in port of 7 hours or more. |
| Cruise terminals |
Fort-de-France has two large piers:
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All in all, our experience shows that exploring Martinique on your own, especially the beautiful beaches around the Bay of Fort-de-France, is absolutely worthwhile. With a little planning, you can experience an unforgettable day in paradise – without a tour package and at your own pace. We hope you enjoy it!